Diary Entries: 1255
9th October 2018
Wind Direction: Cross shore South
Wind Stength: F6/F7
Surf / Sea State: waves
Air Temperature: 15
Sea Temperature: 14.1
Weather: cloud and sun
Out an hour after high and waves peaking up to mast high further out, but
most head to logo, with chop on faces. Soon smoothed out to nice faces.
Wind was little gustly so well powered to maxed on 4.2m, and sat 30 mins
out waiting for wind to ease and after it increased. Great fun. A couple of
DTL came off as I pressure back foot more into bottom turns, but too much
wind to try many. Thought of changing to 3.7m as a few others did, but
waited for forecast easing to come instead.
Only lost board and riding in surf once, and it help together unlike
yesterday, and managed to get out damge-free through challenging surf.
Awesome and stoked, though some others didn't enjoy so much
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